Look of the day

 

scarf, top, jeans www.fashion-conscience.com

boots, bag www.ilovevintage.nl

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What does ' Made in Italy' actually mean?

Each country has it's own distinctive brand that characterizes it's product. So stands Made in Germany for reliability, Made in the U.S.A. is the sign of an innovative product, Made in Japan symbolizes high tech and Made in Italy expresses craftsmanship. 

In fashion world, Italy is the number one in the high quality of it's own textiles and the elegance and refinement of making them! The whole world trusts a product that is Made in Italy.

But what does Made in Italy actually mean?
It means a product that is entirely made in Italy, from the design and working out on paper, till the product is made and ready for sale. the Made in Italy product OUGHT to stand for the actual and total derivation and production in Italy. Unfortunately in many cases this is not so... Cause actually many products can carry that name even when they are almost entirely made abroad!   

According to article 24 of the European Customs Code  (Reg EEC 2913/1992), a product which has been made in two or more countries is considered to originate in the country where the final transformation or substantial work took place.

So basically that means that an item, let's say a bag, made for 70% abroad and for 30% in Italy (the 30% can be for example: the attaching of the logo)can be labelled as Made in Italy. But the same goes for an item completely produced abroad but commissioned by a firm that is based in Italy. 

With the globalization it's difficult to establish the real origin of the product. And there's nothing bad with producing abroad or keeping the production exclusively in your own country. But when the only part of an item, the label, is produced in for example Italy it doesn't seem right to label it as a Made in Italy product...It should be labelled by where the main part of the production has been done! Like in the case of the 70% abroad/ 30% Italian bag, instead of the Made in Italy tag it should say where the 70% took place. The same goes for the example of the bag totally produced abroad but commissioned by an Italian firm, cause it doesn't mean that the workers abroad were paid fair wages just because an Italian firm supervises the production (and we want to know it's REAL origin). Also in that case, the item should be labelled with the country of production. 

So what's going on?
Many Italian firms, including some of the most prestigious fashion brands, choose to move the largest part of the production abroad. Where labour is cheaper but in some cases also less skilled. The employed personnel takes a lower salary allowing the firm to make an enormous profit. So imagine that the items sold in some of the best boutiques and shops for a sky high price, are made for a few euros in for example Chinese workshops! Where the people are forced to work in unhygienic and inhuman conditions for long working days, under payed. 

In fact a handbag exclusively made and produced in Italy can cost between the 70 and 100 euros in comparison to the same bag made in china where the production would cost between the 14 and 20 euro. So if the big brands work like this, they could even lower their price, become more commercial, and still make a lot of profit.


Obviously this doesn't mean that ALL firms work like that or neither that made in china by definition means under payed workers or poor made clothing. Or even that Italian workers don't work in bad conditions too.
The importance is to understand where every item comes from, that it's made with respect for environment and people. And if we start to understand the exact origin of a product, we can help to change the working conditions and environmental impact for the better.    
 

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Look of the day

shirt, necklace, bracelet, skirt www.fashion-conscience.com

shoes, bag www.ilovevintage.nl

Text: All text copyright Green Fashion (unless indicated) 

Images: Every effort has been made to trace copyright holders. Please alert me if there are omissions. All collages/looks: copyright Green Fashion

Subculture fusion

A Subculture is the result of a process of intellectual, spiritual and aesthetic development. A particular way of living, referring to a group or time.

With the upcoming of the Teddy Boys in Britain in the 50's, the phenomenon of the subculture became more popular. For the first time the British working class youth had money to spend on clothing, motorcycles and entertainment! With this important change came also the need for something different than the current society was offering. Together with the hipster and beat generation, the Teddy boys paved the way for other popular subcultures to emerge like the mods, rockers, hippies etc. Born out of social/ political disagreements, through the way each group dressed and the music they listened to, they expressed their view on the world. It was also an important change for the consumerism, starting to focus on the youth as the ones with money to spent.

Over time many more subcultures emerged, each single one expressing a different way of thinking, living and dressing, bringing people with the same interests together. But also some subcultures changed through time, adapted to the current mainstream society or came back to their roots (like today where the Teds are preferring the original Teddy Boy 50's look over the 70's version)

The fashion designers often take their inspiration from the subculture meltingpot, reinventing the look and making it more mainstream. Once the combination of leather jacket, jeans and a pair of motorcycle boots was associated with the rockers and criminality. Nowdays almost everybody owns one or all of those items. At fashionshows or in magazines we can see the rock look mixed with hippy elements or preppy punk. Not only because the fashion industry invents and reinvents but also because they like to go beyond the stereotypes. It is also reflecting how we are today. In a society that offers all types of music and clothing, and with a history where most shocking looks have already passed by, we show our political and social disagreement in a different way.

Now we can find people dressed punk mixed with a cowboy hat and listening to Mozart, not belonging to any subculture, but expressing the individuality till the top! With all the fashion choices we can make today, the clothing is not any more a sign of a certain convinction but just fun!

When fashion mixes up all the different elements into a new style:

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BRAND TO WATCH: Think Boutique

Inspired by a lecture about ethical fashion, Think Boutique's founder realised that she wanted to create a company that combined her passion for fashion and her concerns about the nature of the fashion industry's moral code. So after a long period of research she founded Think Boutique in September 2010. The boutique sells products either from Fair Trade, organic, sustainable, up-cycled or locally produced sources...combining the wearable with fashionable off statement pieces. Go to the website to check it out! 

My favorites: 

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Look of the day

earrings www.soul-flower.com

vest www.beaumontorganic.com

bag, top, shorts, sneakers www.fashion-conscience.com


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Fashion hero: David Bowie

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Look of the day

vest www.vintagevixen.com

shirt, earrings, bag, jeans, shoes www.fashion-conscience.com


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A denim tale

Post Recycle Dry by Nudie Jeans - The Movie
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BRAND TO WATCH: Nudie Jeans

Nudie Jeans is a Swedish clothing brand founded in 1999. Specialized in raw and prewashed jeans, but the collection includes many more items of casual clothing and accessories. The jeans are made of high quality denim mixed with hemp, cashmere and organic cotton. With an eye to the environment Nudie ensures that the entire portion of any fabric produced is used which gives especially the jeans that nice unique look. Go to the website and check the store nearby or shop online! 

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Look of the day

jacket, top, leggings, bag www.fashion-conscience.com

necklace www.teichdesign.com

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The one and only: Ian Curtis

    ''I can now see everything falling to pieces before my eyes''

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BRAND TO WATCH: APlus Organic Collection

Aplus is a personal artistic project of Annalisa Pagetti who draws all the designs. The brand really believes in long lasting quality and producing eco-friendly. Therefor they use 100% organic cotton shirts only, with watercolour based HANDMADE designs. The production is entirely made in Italy.In the mood for shopping a great original tee? Go to the website and order online!

   
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Images: Every effort has been made to trace copyright holders. Please alert me if there are omissions. All collages/looks: copyright Green Fashion

Look of the day

jacket www.vintagevixen.com

blouse, jeans, bag www.fashion-conscience.com

boots www.ilovevintage.nl

sunglasses www.teichdesign.com 

Text: All text copyright Green Fashion (unless indicated) 

Images: Every effort has been made to trace copyright holders. Please alert me if there are omissions. All collages/looks: copyright Green Fashion